Colca Canyon DIY
Apart from the condor, it did not drive me crazy. I could have gone to the Cruz del Condor directly in one day, leaving Arequipa at 3.00 and then back the same evening.
There are various types of excursion, I chose the “easy” one, with bus, the alternative is a trekking. Prices are more or less the same in all the agencies around the Plaza de Armas, however, they depend on the hotel level you choose
I say I want to spend as little as possible, and then they set me up in the “basic” accomodation. Warning: in Chivay many hotels do not have any heating, and it can be COLD at night.
I choose, I would say at random, Wayra Travel Expedition, cost 75 PEN. The mentioned amount does not include the “boleto turistico” (70 PEN), the entrance to the thermal baths in the Chivay area, and meals. No single supplements are applied.
In addition to the cold weather, another potentially negative aspect to consider is the altitude, since Chivay is at 3600 mts high, to be reached via a 4900 mts high pass. Coming from Puno and Bolivia, I did not have any problems. Already shortly after Arequipa our guide recommends everyone to buy coca leaves, but I must point out that, despite this remedy, some people were feeling really bad (headache, vomit, nosebleeds).
Our guide, Patricia, has proved to be competent, and very willing to satisfy our curiosity.
Shortly after departing, we stop at a small store, property of her friends, I guess, to buy coca leaves and other necessities. Patricia explain how much to use (5 leaves), how to roll the leaves (inserting a small stone that gives a slightly soothing flavor) , and how to keep it the mouth (without chewing, and simply swallowing the juice). Some, however, as I said, will feel very bad anyway. As soon as we leave again, Patricia invites everybody to chew the coca leaves, so that their positive effect can benefit at the arrival at 4900 mt. Before that, however, we made two stops, one at the Aguada Blanca reserve where some vicuñas cross our road
and then to a small restaurant where we drink mate (of coca, of course), and trimate (coca, muña and chachacoma), it costs 4 PEN. I try the trimate, more for curiosity than real necessity. Actually I am also thirsty
Muña as well is goof for the altitude sickness, but most of all it has a delicious aroma and flavour, something among mint, oregano, and thyme. I could not precisely describe the taste of coca leaves, I would say rather like hay. Drinking it does not procure me any effect. ..
The third stop is at a mirador where we can see three different volcanoes (Ampata 6288 mt, 5976 mt Sabancaya, Hualca Hualca 6025 mt). We are at 4900 meters, and it is damn cold.
The descent towards Chivay is spectacular. The Colca Canyon is the second deepest in the world. Unfortunately the bus does not stop, and the road is very rough, so it is difficult to take pictures
We arrive in Chivay, I do not follow the group which has a buffet lunch, and I devour a cheese and quinoa soup in a comedor nearby, they ask me 18 PEN, which is a rip off, but it’s my fault, since I did not ask for the price list before ordering… My room is in the same hotel who organized the buffet lunch. It’s cold, and not very clean. Thankfully I don’t have to stay long time because after a while the bus takes us to the Tambo hot springs. We waste a lot of time to pick up all the participants in their various hotels, so we reach our destination at already 16.00
Zero desire to undress and put myself in the water. It’s windy and the air is bitter cold. I pay anyway the entrance (5 PEN) and wander in the area, while some of my companions are immersed in the hot pools. The funniest thing was to cross, strictly one at a time, a rickety rope bridge, which at halfway begins to swing and causes a feeling of vertigo
The paths are crossed by small rivulets of steaming water, the scenery is quite pleasant, even lit, finally, by some rays of a sun nearing sunset. The lower middle part of the valley is covered with cultivated terraces, bordered by mountains with steep hills. I override some signs of prohibition and arrive in the well-tended garden of an ultra-luxury hotel, the Colca Lodge Spa & Hot Springs. They have private natural pools, and there is none around.
I go back to my hotel and thankfully the shower water is very hot, so I can wash myself, but undress and get dressed is a tragedy! I wait for dinner time wrapped in my duvet sleeping bag. The evening meal is not included, but, mindful of the bad experience at lunch, I join my group, who booked at the “El Horno” Restaurant, a place where they organize the so-called peñas, typical songs and dances, including Wititi, performed by dancers dressed traditionally. We can choose various kind of menu, mine costs 20 PEN, with separate drinks. I think that almost all the package tours groups are gathered here tonight
Some of my travel mates are affected by “soroche”, and eat very little.
The evening is funny. We go back at 23.00. Once again I am grateful to myself for having taken a warm and thick duvet sleeping bag.
The next morning the alarm clock is set very soon. It sleets. Our guide is not sure we will see the condors, because of the weather. We arrive around 7.30 in Yanque, the country we crossed yesterday to get to the thermal baths. It has a pretty central square, and an imposing church, that we visit
Next stop is another village, Maca, the weather is getting better and we keep our fingers crossed.
After some viewpoints
we reach the Cruz del Condor, already crowded. A pale sun peeps. Condors show up, thankfully, lifted by hot air currents, hovering over our heads and then gliding majestically. One of them hovers just above my head covering the pale sun, and scaring me a bit , the feeling is as I had a glider a few palms from my head. It’s impossible to hold a “oohh”. Amazement, admiration, feeling of smallness and inadequacy in the presence of this proud inhabitant of the sky, worshiped by the Incas and considered messenger of the gods.
The return to Arequipa is a gamble: will our minibus win the challenge with the thick snow, anticipating the road surface freezing? Many of the South American tourists are enthusiastic, and at 4900 mts impose a stop to get off, and photograph themselves in the snow, and touch it. Even the driver gets involved in the festive atmosphere. Apparently, some of them have never seen it, or they have never spent a night in an ice-locked bus, no toilet, no heating, no sleep and no food !!
Fortunately we reach Arequipa at the agreed time. The “ciudad blanca”, with its mild climate, the white buildings and the beautiful square full of people embraces and welcomes me back. Oh, I much I wanted to go directly to the condors, and stay one more day here ….